I was getting closer on Papichulo. Finally I got down to 1 hang on the route, doing it in 2 sections (notably getting past the heinous, fingery, resistant 8c+ part and falling in what is concidered the RP crux). But conditions were getting warmer, my skin destroyed and I needed a break (maybe mostly for my head). Just to the left of it there is another great route, partly bolted and climbed by my friend Joe Kinder. The original version finishes on Papichulo, is called Joe Blau and in terms of grade settles around 8c+. There is also a harder finish FAd by Adam Ondra called Joe Cita, (9a). I’ve tried the route a bit before and really liked it, so this was a nice one to focus on for a while. After some work and falling mainly in the first part I managed to do the harder version of Joe Cita, the perfect route: long, hard, varied etc.


Joe Cita. photos: Mateusz Haladaj


Apart from doing this route I’ve been climbing in other places in the area: Terradets/Regina, Figols, Collegats, Abdella de la Conca and Tres Pons, where I finally finished the last route at the main sector. On restdays it’s been music as usual, trying to get started with my new instrument the djeli n’goni.


Playing+recording with Zaky and Seydou in Carla-Bayle, France.


Getting an er-hu (Chineese 2 stringed violin) lesson from Xianbo in Barcelona.


With Sacko Seyba and the n’goni in Paris.