Posted On: februari 2, 2011

I started climbing in the beginning of the 90’s and it’s still the main part of my life. In the beginning the most natural thing was the traditional style but today I try not to limit myself to a specific genre; whether it’s trad, sport, bouldering, long routes, comps etc. For me climbing has many aspects, freedom being one of the main ones, letting me to find my own way trough life and climbing. I was on the swedish national team for 10 year’s but in the past I’m more focused on rock climbing and traveling. I went to almost 40 countries to climb (to date…) and had unique experiences in all of them.

during the FA of my route ”Oulad Bambara” in gorges du Todra, Morocco. photo: Jonas Paulsson/

On the paper I’ve climbed over 1000 routes of 8 and harder, among them several 9a RP, 8b+ OS and 8B boulder. As climbing is growing and getting more and more about grades, news and comps I try to go back to the the reason why I started in the first place: the simple joy of moving on on rock, climbing beautiful lines, being out in nature with good friends far away from all the craziness that mankind has developed. And the essence being in the moment, climbing in (or beyond) my limit in somekind of a trance, making it something of a moving meditation. And simply because it’s one of the most natural things to do…

holidays on Ton Sai beach, Thailand. photo: Terje Aamodt/

Although I’ve been a professional athlete since 2001 I try to find balance between performance and a more spiritual approach to climbing and life. I know it all may sound cliché so it’s important to not take yourself too seriously!

descenting from one of the ”Main de Fatima” towers near Hombori, Mali. photo: Jonas Paulsson/

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